How To Protect Wood Floors From Pool Water
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As inspectors, we have to go out and see problems every day, and in recent years I have seen an increase in concrete base moisture problems. The issues I am referring to are not new construction or even 20 year old construction; they seem to be more prevalent in tiles from the 1980s or older. Older subdivisions with tract-style homes and areas with high water levels seem to have the highest percentage of problems.
How To Protect Wood Floors From Pool Water
In these calls, I find sporadic dark discoloration and/or opaque bubbles appearing in engineered or solid hardwood floors. For example, when I walk into a house, I notice two or three of these areas in the living room, one in the master bedroom and dining room, and two in the guest bedroom. The rest of the hardwood floor is fine. The first thing that came to mind is humidity, but I found that those affected are not near water sources. I continue to take humidity readings and find that the problem areas have high humidity readings, but the unaffected areas are within normal regional limits. What causes discolored or opaque bubbles?
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Often during the investigation I find out that the house was built in the late 1970’s and has 1000 square feet of ½ inch hardwood flooring. The installer is present and shows documentation of calcium chloride test results from three test locations, all of which measured under 4 pounds MVER. The adhesive used is recommended up to 8 pounds MVER, and the hardwood floor’s moisture content readings were within the home’s EMC limits at the time of installation. The installer removes the boards from the affected areas as well as the intact areas, and I found that the level of adhesive coverage was in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. All evidence so far indicates that the installer has followed all the necessary guidelines for a successful installation. So is the installer to blame for the failure?
In this scenario, sometimes the homeowner hired a leak detection service before I arrived, and the results showed no leaks. Now let’s take the facts step by step:
This moisture migration can show up as blisters/bubbles on the floor surface (above) and/or dark areas in some boards (bottom photo).
1) We know that the moisture content of the hardwood floor was EMC, so there is no problem there.
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2) We know the calcium chloride results were below the adhesive limits and the coverage level was achieved, so again no problem.
3) The leak detection service found no leaks and there were no signs of leaks prior to installation so no problem.
The facts are that the installer is not at fault and it is a site related problem, but some inspectors will blame the installer.
So where does the moisture come from? The only source left is the concrete base, but how? The calcium chloride tests were acceptable and were performed by the installer at three random locations per ASTM 1869. But let’s say (for the sake of this article) the test equals 1 square meter, so only 3 square meters out of 1,000 were tested – less than 0.3 percent of of the total work, or in other words, 99.7 percent was not checked. . The chances of testing in problem areas are pretty slim. From the experience of taking many core samples to see the conditions under the sheets on these jobs, I found that the problem was with the polyethylene sheet – it has holes and is brittle or damaged if not completely broken. Polyethylene of this era was the best technology at the time to prevent moisture migration in the flooring, but its effectiveness is coming to an end.
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Most, if not all, insurance companies have “property exclusions” in their policies that do not cover this type of moisture damage. For example, a general statement might read: “Water below the surface of the earth, including water that creates pressure or flows or flows through a building, wall, partition, sidewalk, driveway, foundation, swimming pool, hot tub, or spa, does not apply to its filtration and circulation systems.” or other entities.”
How can installers or distributors protect themselves from this scenario? First, a thorough site assessment of the home or facility must be completed. Does the landscape flow away or into the house? Is the landscape under the slab? Does the house have a musty or musty smell? Ask questions like when the house was built, what flooring was installed (if it’s not visually obvious) and whether they have had any water damage. Take several humidity readings and write them down, even if they don’t show elevated levels. Advise the client that due to the age of the home, there is a possibility that a foundation problem will be exposed when the wood floor is installed. Let them know that you recommend a dehumidification system such as a one-step adhesive, a two-part adhesive system, or even an epoxy system that can handle increased moisture vapor emissions. Let them know you are doing everything you can to make the installation successful.
On the legal side of things, check your contract. Before starting any work, every installer or dealer must sign a contract that includes provisions for this type of error. Here is an example: “It is mutually agreed that the contractor shall not be liable for any monetary loss, damage or inconvenience caused by underground moisture emissions not detected during installation and that every effort will be made to “detect. problem and are therefore not eligible.
Unfortunately, there are people in today’s society who are always looking for a way to solve a problem, and this has gotten worse over the years. To protect yourself, remember (as with any successful installation) it all starts with preparation. Conduct a thorough job site assessment, complete moisture testing, follow manufacturer’s instructions, enter into appropriate contracts, and document everything.
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Wooden floors make your home a special beauty. It enhances and complements the aesthetic feeling, not only goes well with other accessories in your room.
Such a beauty is sensitive to atmospheric changes, so come monsoon and you have to be very careful because the wood tends to absorb moisture, so it expands.
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You must be familiar with wooden doors that become too stubborn to close properly during the rainy season, right? The same is true with wooden floors. And that’s not all. If moisture gets too deep into the soil, it can cause stains.
If you want to keep your wooden floors shiny and beautiful all year round, you need to do a little work and pay attention to a few more things. It’s not that hard.
Let’s take a look at six simple tips that will make your floor wood a classic natural beauty for a few years to come.
Water is the biggest enemy of wooden floors. It is really a tedious job to restore the beauty of wooden floors affected by water leakage. So make sure that there are no water leaks in any part of your house.
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(a) Cracks in the patio floor can cause water seepage, causing water to leak into your room. Therefore, make sure that the water drains completely from the terrace.
(b) It is important to perform roof maintenance from time to time to prevent such incidents. You need an expert to check potential leaks on your patio.
(c) Attached bathrooms in your bedrooms (if they have wooden floors) must not have any plumbing problems.
D) Your electrical appliances must be in perfect working order (eg refrigerator, air conditioner, washing machine). Their malfunction can cause water on the floor.
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Wooden floors and wet shoes just don’t work. It is important to remove raincoats, umbrellas and raincoats before entering a room with wooden floors. If your entryway also has wood flooring, place a super absorbent mat over it so people can wipe their feet well, and have a coat rack nearby to keep raincoats and umbrellas dry. The longer the mat, the better, as people can rub off dirt and mud as they keep walking on it.
Carpets and rugs are not as well suited to wooden floors as they could be
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