How To Color Manga Panels In Gimp
How To Color Manga Panels In Gimp – Quick guide as I’ve been asked to do this a few times (like my icon).
This tutorial is for photoshop, But I hope I can find a way to convert it to image software.
How To Color Manga Panels In Gimp
I only know one kind of given, But I’ll add it anyway. For this lesson, Mirio’s manga will be colored by heroakacaps.
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I use it because the first option you get for new paintings in Photoshop is a pretty thing that’s proportional to what you’re moving.
Note: Don’t forget to change the picture mode. In most cases, Mangas copied from herocaps will be set to Grayscale mode. You may want to convert it to RGB color. (This can be done in Image > Layout)
As mentioned above, This step is completely optional; But I think it helps to give the mangacap some pop. To do this, Create a new layer and set it to Hard Light mode. Then, Choose a desaturated color. I mostly use purple and pink, but any color can be used. Now start drawing above the line. Hard light mode only changes your color to the black and gray of the image. Isn’t it clean?
When you are satisfied with your outline, Add a Hard Light layer to the original layer and set this layer to Multiply.
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You can do this yourself, but I find it easier to select and reuse. (Note: You can also use it for regular art.) To do this, Select outside of the symbol (all selection patterns are checked in your selection tool).
Then, Select > Edit > Expand. Because manga are usually small and minimal; I usually zoom in by one pixel (I use two in normal art). It keeps your colors organized. Once that’s done, go to Select > Invert (Control + Shift + I). This changes your options.
Now you can go ahead and start the colors; Or you can use the fill box to create a monochrome color base. First, create a new layer under Multiply. It usually fills the layer with a contrasting color, so you can tell if there’s an empty space. Then, This layer will be highlighted (the little dot above the layer column).
This is self-explanatory. You can add color directly to the foundation or use masks. I use both flat colors or gradients for specific areas.
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I explained myself. Although I usually go for a dark purple shade for coverage. The color of your shadow has a big effect on the overall tone of the image, so mix warm colors with cool colors. Grades also help mix things up.
Your profile looks great now; maybe Could be better. Trick? Soft layers of light. They help make subtle changes, but when used correctly. They can accentuate an image.
To do this, Typically, I put all my layers in a folder and add a clipping mask to the top (outside) of that folder. Fill it with a single color (usually a single line, a warm, desaturated color);
(This is compared to another updated manga I made and currently use as my icon.)
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That’s all, You can add a background or make it transparent or leave it white. Looking for answers or peace of mind? When your life becomes pointless, you need a break.
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I’ve asked this before, but how do you color the pages? Is there a manual for it?
I really have to!! I use Sai for painting and shading and photoshop for retouching. I’ve shot a lot of color film myself, but only one speed paint (if you want to see it, you can watch it here. I made about 3 more videos, but I don’t know if they’re not uploaded. Useful/interesting? Also, it’s hard to find music on youtube.)
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This is my workspace. This is the first version of this thread. on the left You can see my color palette; It’s messy, But here’s a general outline:
Spray the image you want. Sometimes I recreate things. Sometimes I make things up. I’ve added shinsho once or twice to the panels or the extended panels that will have more. I think editing the panel is covered in a more extensive guide, but if you watch the video I linked, I have drawn half of this panel.
It makes everything white anyway. This is done with the Opacity —> Opacity option on the slide. gimp also has an option called color->alpha. I can also do photoshop, but I don’t remember how.
Next is the basic colors. This is my favorite part. Personally, I make sure to work quickly with my shadows. Primary colors last the longest, especially in images with lots of objects.
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The main colors of Deku Festival lasted me about 5 hours. There is a full video with the base colors 10 minutes before the shading.
I usually draw with the pen tool and use the fill box. Bright colors are hard to see on a monitor, so bright colors are often filled with dark colors and then backlit them.
I work on the details the same way I do the bright colors – fill in after the main part is done. For this panel, I set the skin tone and the eyes, horn Create another layer for the pupils and tongue. Try to keep each part a separate layer. It makes my life easier.
Hori doesn’t have many lashes under her lids, which makes it difficult to paint her eyebrows. I was confused until I got it right.
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Some artists say not to use straight whites for the whites of the eyes. If I don’t feel like it, I do it. I’ve found that white can really stand out…
In addition, I sample a lot of my work to keep things consistent. I love the pink/purple approach to pink, so I get some of my colors from those colors. Same goes for Nejir because his hair color is hard to cut. The image I used for this image
Changing hair color… I always try to start with a medium to light tone. For Eri, I don’t like the use of flat gray for her hair. So I cut the layers and made them pink. The foundation she used for her hair was a warm gray.
A trick sometimes used to paint light sections; I added a darker, more vibrant background color. It helps me see what I’m doing better. I often use this stuff… I don’t even know what color it is. Red pink.
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And then I realized that candy apples and caramel apples are not the same thing; So I had to change the apple,
I use a lot of trim layers. This allows me to set a base layer and then the clipping layer can only color in the area covered by that base layer. Sometimes my layers are locked so I can’t color other areas than where I’ve already placed them.
So… the yellow line determines where my light source is. Always put it on top of the line layer and delete/remove it when you’re done. It helps me remember where my line came from.
Then I grab the air purifier and start determining where the shadow is. It always starts with the skin.
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… then lower the opacity of the airbrush layer until you like the color. This is different for each image.
I created another clip layer on top of the skin airbrush (these layers are named completely wrong. Not skin, not hair. It took 2 hours.) Then I grabbed the ink pen tool and started a shadow. I’m trying to be more careful about this. It should not be smooth and mushy. Sometimes I use the brush tool if I need to be soft.
Start with the strongest shades of the face and gradually move to the lighter areas.
More light areas
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