How Long Is 228 Minutes
How Long Is 228 Minutes – All the rage right now is this Lumintop GT Nano 10180 announcement – and I couldn’t be happier to have one in my hands! I enjoyed it from the start, and it was as fun as you can imagine. Read on for some tips and tricks!
I think this candle couldn’t be happier. This is the “scariest” lamp I’ve ever owned and it’s over $40. If $40 is your “buy it because it’s fun, not because I want it” part of you, then definitely go buy one of these.
How Long Is 228 Minutes
The GT Nano knows exactly what you want. It has all the sounds of the bigger GT lights – it’s a true nano copy of them. Well executed.
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A small slip in oil here is the label – I like the font to match the rest of the series. It’s detailed, which really lets you know that these Nano lights are nano. The serial number – someone forgot to press the “iterate” button on the laser engraving machine, so most of them have the serial number A0001S. I don’t really care – in general, I think there are a lot of serial numbers on flashlights (except on very high-end flashlights they don’t have serial numbers. My
However, I would like to know from Lumintop if the serial number can be used to tell if the light has an aluminum PCB (original version) or a copper PCB (updated iteration). Because
It was hard to change those little lights (you don’t want them to be too small).
The head is thin, and the body is thicker than the head.
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If the head holds the flashlight, I’ll show it here (usually the third photo). If the flashlight is vertical, I’ll show it here as well (usually the fourth picture).
Here’s a test light with the venerable Convoy S2+. Mine is a classic Nichia 219b triple “baked” print. A very good 18650 lamp.
And here is the lamp next to my standard TorchLAB BOSS 35, an 18350 lamp. I have reviewed the aluminum version of this lamp in 35 and 70 units.
And since it’s a fun way to include some family around my house, I took some photos of an American Girl doll that fits the scale of this little candle perfectly!
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A lanyard is only included for carrying the GT Nano. It is attached with a loop on the back cap.
No other car compares to the GT Nano. No pockets, no magnets and no pockets.
The Lumintop GT Nano is powered by a single lithium-ion battery. What is transmitted and determined for light is a single 10180 cell – a small cell! These are rated at 80mAh capacity, which is a small capacity.
The 10180 matches the GT Nano in a general way – good results (plus) in the head.
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Here are some running times. The output of this lamp is very beautiful (regardless of the actual value
Of it). You will experience some dips during the runs – the light will flash several times with each dive.
These times are very short, but this is an 80mAh cell. You can’t expect long running times.
However, since the 10180 cell is the same diameter as the AAA cell, and therefore the same diameter as the 10440 cell, I went looking for a tube that would fit and also accept the 10440 cells. one!
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This is the Nitefox K3 (the one I reviewed) (and it’s also available on amazon – referral link!). It is well twisted. And not only that, but also fits the overall aesthetic of the GT Nano series!
I have already gone and tested several runtimes with this configuration, because I am wondering, as you are doing. Surprisingly, the execution times are not
Long. It may be twice as long after departure and the front door is higher but in general – well, you have to decide if it’s worth it for yourself!
Note that the GT Nano body will fit the K3, but the K3 is not really designed for lithium-ion cells – you’ll probably kill the K3 driver if you try this setup.
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Also note that the manual says the GT Nano will draw 2.5A on turbo. If that’s the case (ie if the turbo
At 2.5 A), then the 10440 has no effect on the transmitter. But what that means is that the 10180 can only output 2.5A, so it’s a turbo. However – and remember this – the driver is the real thing
, that is, he will take the power you give him. So a 10440 call is too high and you may see a blue window. If you do, stop using that phone. “Good” for this light. That’s my disclaimer – use a 10440 at your own risk! (Read below for current high data)
The GT Nano has a fully automatic charging system. Lumintop has a cable – USB to micro-USB. A very short cable.
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A “charge head” is also included. It is made of brass and has plastic caps for protection. The plastic dome above (below) has charge marks. Red for loading and green for full.
This is the type of charging head that fits the GT Nano. Of course, it cannot be used when the electric head is installed.
The load is 0.1A effective and about 1C. Charging is very consistent and ends up at 4.18V. Both are very good things.
I love this load so much that I can unequivocally recommend buying the GT Nano just for use with your other 10180 tube load!!
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Narsil has the PWM moon (left) and 2 other medium types. Turbo has no PWM, and not even 15%. However, I don’t know PWM in any way.
To illustrate, here’s a basic shot, with all the lights in the room turned off and almost nothing touching the sensor. Also, this is the light with the best PWM I’ve found. I added more time scales, so it would be easier to compare the test light. Unfortunately, the PWM on this light is very bad and won’t work with my standard timer, including 50 microseconds (50us). 10ms. 5ms. 2 sc. 1 ms. 0.5ms. 0.2ms. On a display faster than 0.2ms, the on/off cycle takes more than one screen, so it looks (very wrong) like a flat line. I recently wrote about this Ultrafire WF-602C flashlight and explained a little about PWM.
The UI is one-click. It’s an e-switch, with a red symbol. The change in this little light is quite noticeable, but it’s not a big change.
It is very flexible and has a “squishy clicking” mechanism. I also found the Switch to be 70% reliable – I can’t always trust a click to do what I expect. (It didn’t diminish my appreciation for the light, although it should. It was a lot of fun.)
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The user interface is similar to other GT models. It is a copy of this UI. I always set these lights to blue for testing, as it provides specific modes for testing. But ramping is all the rage, and I love it, so it’s nice to be able to switch between the two.
The UI itself is a version of Narsil, by Tom E. The version of my light show is Narsil 1.3. (Check this by pressing 3x, then 2x, then 2x, and the power will flash. 1 flash, pause 3 flashes.)
The user interface is too complicated for my regular table, so I won’t go into that here. This document is fake
There are two groups. One group is a ramp, one group is different types. You can easily switch between ramping and heart rate. The default is ramp, and to change modes, first turn on the light, then hold the back for 3.2s. Flash twice, pause, and flash once. Now, click once. This completes the ramp. When done, turn off the light so you don’t have to change other settings (it’s very easy to do.) There are other things you can do to speed up the end of the plan, but just leave and wait.
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Narsil is an excellent firmware. It’s very simple and you can change many parts (especially?
The beam chosen for this Nano transmitter is an Osram Flat White transmitter. Definitely the best choice. It is the CSLNM1.TG, the 1 mm version of Flat White. This means it is colder (perhaps 6500K), but the emission surface is smaller (1mm squared) so the jet.
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